xt779c6s0714 https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt779c6s0714/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1926 journals kaes_circulars_001_4_195 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 195 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 195 1926 2014 true xt779c6s0714 section xt779c6s0714 l I  Q- 
 
UNIVERSITY OF KENTU KY  
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE I  
Extension Division  
:..:.2
THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director ` U  
9;;%
CIRCULAR NO. 195 . _ A 
I TTT = I J  
JUNIOR HOME PROJECTS IN CLOTHING    _.,  
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Lexington, Ky. `  
May, 1926  
Published in connection with the agricultural extension work  
Carried on by co-operation of the College of Agriculture, Univer- lily
SIW of Kentucky, with the U. S, Department of Agriculture, and ii]_y»‘
distributed in furtherance of the work provided for in the Act of  
I Congress of May 8, 1914.  
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 CIRCULAR NO. 195 V .  
Junior Home Projects in Clothing _ · T .  
By Edith Lacy and Anita Burnam  
K , § ·
l EtN·R01.|.MEtNT _ · W t  
' Any girl in Kentucky between the ages of 10 and 18 years, _ i  
inclusive, may undertake the clothing project. She must fill  
out in full the club enrollment card and return it to the local  
leader or home demonstration agent. (In case there is no home  
demonstration agent in tlhe county, application for membership  
should be made to State Club Oiiice, Experiment Station, Lex— —  
ington, Kentucky.) _ p ,  
0RGAN|zAT»|oN ·  
After the enrollment of the community has been obtained,  
the next step is to organize this membership into a clothing  
group. This may be done by a leader or by the agent. A local  
group should have five or more working on the same unit in  
vlothing. From this number a president and secretary should be  
ohosen. If the group is larger other officers may be necessary.  
lf there are as many as ten club members in one or more projects »  
the group should be organized into a junior community club for A  
the purpose of holding educational and social meetings. These  
meetings should be separate and distinct from the project group    
mcotings. Definite instruction in organization is given in Cir-  
. Gular 117 and in the club seeret·ary’s book, both of which may be `  
Obtained from the State Club Office, Experiment Station, LeX—  
ington, Ky.   -
I

  
! t
 
 i 4 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 195
Si;
  Reconus
eigf  · _ ·
  Each member is to keep an accurate and up—to—date record
  of her club work in the record book provided by the State Club }>l0Y
  Office thru the —county extension worker. She is also to write a t~0g€l
  srtory of her club work on the blank pages in the back -0f the twin
irq record book. When a unit in clothing has been satisfactorily t0 fl
  completed and the record book, story included, has been ap- in3l<·
  proved by the home demonstration agent or State Club Office, · ~ . is ,   `{ffl,     q .  
ty   ·#-;   »~.·   fg ` `  
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A. Materials ’  
. . == ’· 
_ 1. Three-fourths of a yard of linen crash, union crash, K ·  » 
cotton crash, or Hour sack.  
2. Eight inches of white tape 1/Q inch wide. 1  ¢ 
. V4" 
3. Number 60 white thread, number 8 needle.  jg
B. Problems in Construction '  
1. Preparation of material—Straighten the ends of the  
towel by drawing the first woof thread that goes entirely . l V .  
across the material. Cut on this line.  
2. Stitches used . I  
Basting—in hem. `  
Overhanding——in putting on hanger and in ends of the ,  
 
hem.  
. . . . . . ;q"*
Backstitch or stitching Sl,1bCl1—1l1 putting on hanger.  
‘ French hemming—in hemming the cut ends of towel,  
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IF:. _ _
 · 10 Kentucky Emtenszon Cwciclar N0. 1.95
til
 A  3. Method of making C,
 *§ a. Use gage to keep width of hem even.
  b. Use hemming stitch to hold hem in place.
K.? 
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  ····· ····   ····· · ···· ·····
  1
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l$"·=  e. Attach a tape hanger to center of each end of the
  . towel.
  C. Home xvork—Finish towel collect sam les of wash materials
§?~.;·  ’ p
FE  , suitable for aprons. .
  Headband
 ’; i . A. Material
  1. Any serviceable white wash material, as bleached or un-
 .*·'f bleached muslin cambric ercale or nurse ’s linen.
A I 7 } p
  B. Pattern——givcn out by leader.
  Measure with ta e around head and see that ca attern
  P P P
ifi  is 1% inclhcs longer thian headsize.
gt;  Cut two pieces just alike by pattern which has been changed
  to suit head measurements. Try pattern on and if band
fz  . .
  is too broad to suit face make needed changes.
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 Junior Home Projocis in Clothing 11 i  
_ C. Problems in construction l `  
1. Stitches used  
Basting— of edges before stitching.  
Stitc:l1ing—of edges on wrong side, on right side after i ·  
turning. ' l  
Buttonhole—for fastenings. .  
Sewing on button- . p  
Outline stitch (for club emblem) ’ » i  
2. Method of making  e 
After cutting two pieces of cloth just alike work club  
emblem in outline stitch on, the center front of one _ —  i 
` piece. Baste together tilie two pieces right sides to- l i  
gether, srtitch all way around except one end. Turn i I  
. . . . . ' " *2
the band right side out, crease on line of stitching,  
b21.ST€, tUI`11 ]`ZI\V €(,llg`€S lll Hill lCl]€ Op(-311 GDC-l 2lHd S'l·l’lZC-il i  
about 1/16 inch from edge of band all the way around. V  
The cap may be fastened with two buttons and button-  
holes.  
. ‘ — .  
 
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  12 Jfcaztucky .E£l}Z‘672S’l.07l C~ircuZar N0. 195
  , . . D
gg.; D. Home \Vork—·colleet pictures of suitable aprons and dresses
g z  to wear in the kitchen. `
J1 
  Apron
?·“ 
  A. Materials
  1. Use the same material as used for the headband.
  B. Pattern
5.  ~ V . eeve ess vic ar<>e cn UU'l 0 r ec crcss.
[_  1 Sl l t_1,lg ogltwottl
  C. Trimming-bias ta Je.
 . 5
rw;  D. Problems in construction
.   1. Cuttinex
ee °
  2. Basting of hems, etc. l
  3. Binding of edges if not hemmed.
  p 4. H€11]S—ll13Cll11lG made.
if  5. Cutting and joining bias—for apron that is bound.
`cyt 
  ‘ 6. Pockets.
QQ.;  7. Buttonholes and buttons.
  E. Home work—practicc making of ·buttonholcs.
`"R  .
 
  Kimono Dress
a g  A. Materials
·;Q‘ £  1. Wasli material as iereale, rinfrham or Enirrlish irint
  7 . g 2: I: l
 . -I suitable in color for the individual and the occasion.
its  . .
  l Amount—2 lengths plus hem and tinishings.
  B. l’attern4—Kimona type. The neck line, belt and hem made
  . . . . I .
  to suit the individual. (See Manual for kimono pattern.)
  C. Problems in construction.
ia`?  1. Shrinking the material.
fs ¤
Az?  -
  2. Setting color.
‘¢‘—§e  3. Drafting kimona. pattern from individual measure-
?*
 Qa ments.
  4. Cutting.
  5. Fitting.
  6. French S(2Z1111S—fO1‘ side scams.
  7. Hem——machine or hand hemmed depending on ma-
    terial used.
  8. Neck and sleeve finish—faced, bound or collar
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Junior Home Projects m Clothing 13 i i  
.  
ajsrsitll
D. Home \VOI'k——C‘11OOS€ pictures which show dresses suitable i _  
. for school, church and party. Make poster of dress ma- Y  
terials.  
Suggested Topics for Discussion.  
1. Good posture. ’ _  
. . if ;
2. Care and use of the sewung machine. .  
3. Standards 111 Junior club SBWVIHQ. _ _ ‘ V 
4. (Tloth—l·Iow cotton material is made. _1 . {  `
5. How to S€i€CiQ_IllHt€l'lEliS for dresses. . 5 
. .  ·.»z»~=&
6. Choosing becoming colors. J r 1 . 
A7. Judging; and scoring. __ i i 
1 S. Laundering cotton garments. ' i 1 _  ' ,;
9. Standards of personal cleanliness. i  _
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.93
 , 14 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 195
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  UN·lT u.
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  4-H owe Gl|;RLS’ UNDERWQEAR
    X Goals for Second Clothing Unit
  i  iiii  
if      * l A, Every member should know the following;
  - ·_ ? ii 1. How to select underwear from the stand-
 f ’   point of health, economy, appropriateness.
sj;  E
 ~ E 2. Materials and finishes for underwear.
 i ` 
 ll . 3. How to make buttonholes, sew on buttons,
'iQ  ’
  l , l ‘ and n1ake a placket.
Q  .,, mm 4. Care and repair of own clothing.
:·   ,
 ti! A I` 5. How to wash different materials.
 l
  Sewing Requirements
V3 ', I
 Q,} ‘ Night gown
  p Combination or bloomers
  Slip or petticoat
 si. Patehing and darning
` { , Christmas or birthday gift
Q ·_ 5 Kimono or bathrobe or some other garment equivalent suggested
ill, as problem for older girls.
  Nightgown
  A. Materials--cambric, crepe, muslin, long cloth, nainsook. ·
  B. Pattern——simple kimono type cut from individual measure-
  ments.
  C. Problems in construction.
  1. Cutting without a. pattern-—by measurements.
  2. French seams——machine made.
  3. Hem—either by hand or machine.
hi
 it

 . , 
' ` Junior Home Projects in Clothing 15 V ‘  
4. Neck 1inishes——facing with a bias, French hem and t .  
° other methods. L `. , 
5. Decorative stitclhes-——chain, outline, feather stitch for ·  
» neck and sleeve Hnishes.  
D. Home work—read ab·out textile fibers, cotton and linen. I  
We 
Bloomers ·  
A. Materials—seleot according to the needs of the girl; muslim, _ · _ i  
crepe, satcen or material to match dress. 1 `E 
B. Pattern—may be selected by girl or leader. t p 
C. Problems in construction  
1. Cutting. i y  
2. Seam—f1at fell for center seam iiat fell or French for 3 i  
l side seams. · ‘  
3. Fastening in elastic. . ·  
•¢·;r;~—
. WE?
Combination ` 
A. M·ateri·als—mus1in, cambric, nainsook, crepe, etc.  
Emphasis placed on suitable material.  
B. Pattern—Simple in design. May be selected by girl or· 1  
leader or can be cut from individual measurements.  
C. Problems in construction  
]. Cutting. E  
2. Seam—French or fiat fell by machine.  
3. Neck and armhole iinish—bias facing, French hem or  
binding. Some hand work desirable.  
4. Trimmiug—-simple decorative stitch, rickrack, or dur-  
able edge. V  
5. Eyelet for drawstring. [Tiff
6. Shoulder straps of material like garment.  
E 7. Tapes—n»o~t ribbon.  
D. Home work—sew buttons, straps, or mend underwear as  
needed.  
V Darning   R I
A. Stocking darn.  
B. Home work-darn all of own stockings.   .
 
w  
it

 if .
  16 Kciztucky Extension. Circular N0. 1.95
  A Patching
 i A. Hennned patch——after learning to patch do work on act°ual
  garment.
  B. Home work—repair garinents needing repair.
 
  Slip or Petticoat
kl;]
hr A. Materi»a1—c·hoose material suitable for dress with which it
  i 1S to be worn. White sateen, lingette, cambric, English
 i broadcloth or pongee may be used.
  H- Pattern—simple, straight, slip-over-head type.
’§_ . . . . ` . ‘ .
  ”‘· C. 'l`r1mm.1n,¤·—ver ‘ sim le as hemstitching and f€*E1.tl1€1‘S1)11ZCl1— ·
 A in y P > ¤
  in¤·.
  ° . .
  D. Problems in construction
  1. Review of stitches and seams.
  2. Dee hems or facin¤*s——to make shadow Jroof.
, B.  P D I
YQ;  3. Extra fulness——inverted leats at hi J or in center
  P l
tg],  1 back or gathers at hip.
"LK  . .
 jl 4. Placket—fo1· petticoat on band.
  5. Bands. '
 i Kimono or Bathrobe
H.   ‘ A. Material—Japanese crepe, corduroy or other material de-
  pending on season of year.
ta.  .
 ‘ B. P2J.iLt€l‘l1+k11110]lO pattern made from measurements or com-
  mercial pattern.
¤=·s  . . . . . .
 · C. TI'11'l1H1l11°`—S11l1 le contirastin bands or stitching.
  Suggested Topics for Discussion
¢~=  `
  1. Good taste in underwear.
  2. Suiitable materials for underwear.
  3. Home-made vs. ready-made underwear. i
  4. Daily and seasonal care of clothing. _
  5. How to know cotton linen wool and silk.
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Junior Home Projects in Clothing 17 N  
UNIT iu. i y  
[ THE SCHOOL GlRL’S COSTUME V  
;,'._._._._._-_ Goals for Third Clothing Unit  
I ••'§•§6••O•••O••·_ Qvriéfl
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_ h•••••••‘••••:•••••!.:,:,:,:,:•:,;,`  
-· ;•;·$•;•§•t•% .   ¢.•.•.•.•.•.·» _ , ·  
._._._._._.,{  »;,».•,;.;.;.;.;.;, A { Ever y girl should know; -_  
•°•°•°•°•* ·‘   .;‘§•’•'•'•'•°• I  
_ i•2•2•2•2•i Z•$•2•2·2•Z¤ »  
L &$;2;t;2;£:§ ;Z;Z;Z;2;1v$ .  
::;:;;::;:44 .. ;.;.;.•· _.; 1. How to make her own cloth. . T  
T ‘Z°¥$$$t$;Qe @2*, $2* - V . l  
·*=·=·=·=:=s:. :¢:¢s. · mg-  
**?€?£=$$ `·’  (’¤°===·· T  
VAS · 2. How to select becoming T ig 
clothing. ‘  
E   C l T i 
V`   How to use machine attach- . C l    
‘ ments. l _ i  
` —  
' 4. How to alter patterns.  
' r 7 . , . i  
e. \\ hat to near for ever; occa- Qui
viii?
sion.  ;- 
. .  
Sewing Requirements.  
A complete costume suitable for school or street wear which , afi
includes : l  
. 1. Hat. T  
2. Dress.  
o. Underwear suitable to be worn with the dress.  
4. Shoes and hose—selected. .  
5. Other accessories to complete costume.  
6. Writr; an article on "Tl1e Well»dressed Club Girl."  
‘ 1 lt?}
` Dress `  
A. Material-—suitable to idividual and to occasions upon which l  
. .  
it is to be worn. The season of the year should help de-  
J 4*
terinme the material selected. Cotton or linen material  
suggested.   j
c B. PatTter11—suited to material. occasion and wearer. Set in  
or raglan sleeves.  
ltr
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F .

  
  1.8 Ifenftztcky Extension Circular N0. 1.95
  C. Problems required in conistruction
i i 1. Use of commercial pattern.
 i 2. Alternation of pattern.
  3. Cutting.
 5 4. Fitting.
  5. Seams—French or plain depending on material used.
  6. How to set in sleeves.
  7. Hem—by hand or machine depending on material used.
l`  8. Finishes——collars and cuffs bands of simple embroidery,
  etc.
r i D. Home work—read something on dress design. .
 V Underwear
    A. Material—selected to suit dress with which it is to be worrn.
  B. Make tihe number of pieces required to go with the dress.
 yl Not less than two pieces should be made.
.5: 
Q §_ Mininety
  A. Hat may be made, old one renovated or re-trinnned, or a
 Q new one selected. Every girl should have some work on
  selection of hats.
 Q  ‘ B. Home work—make over a hat for a younger member of the
  family.
  Accessories
 L Make at least one accessory, as; scarf, tie, collar a11d cuffs,
 t handbag or liandkercliief.
  Subjects for Discussion.
~ i 1. Wlrat it means to be well dressed.
  2. Ornaments and accessories. y
  3. Decorations for underwear.
  4. The costume as a whole.
  5. How to select becoming hats.
.—,e:Q
._ 
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.  
Junior Home Projects in Clothing 19  
uiwr iv. ¤ l  
figs.
THE CLUB G.|RL’s WARDROBE _  
’ 2+%
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‘ .  x A
•‘•   ° i { 
A - MAB.  · 
. Goals for Fourth Clothing Unit  
Every memlber shouid know: i » (  
1. How to sew on wool, silk and thin cotton materials. ‘ “  
2. How to renovate old nraterials. . l  
3. How to plan aud care for her wardrobe.  
4. Something about making ehildren’s clothing.  
Sewing Requirements  
 
A. Make an inventory of individual wardrobe and make gar- ‘  
ments needed. Five garments are to be made, at least one  
of which 1S to be a. made-over. The progeet should include ,  
some work on wool or silk material. The finished project igjg
should show a complete outfit, either for winter or summer.  
The following is a suggested list from which the garments  
may be chosen:  
Wool dress  
Summer afternoon dress~of organdie, voile or lawn  
Silk dress (tailored)  
Silk dress (afternoon) r lg.
l Blouse or smock  
Skirt  
Sweater or jacket  
· Step-ins and braissere ij!)
sup il;
"Pf, .
Hat il.; 1
_ » Collar and cuffs (counted as one garment)  
. `l·

  
Ei A ‘
ii *'»—
  20 Ken/uc/xy Extension C1`l·cuZar N0. 195
fj.
  B. Make a booklet showing the planning of the wardrobe and
  the budget for individual clothing for one year.
  C. Make a ehild’s garment. _
      lVlade·0ver Garment —
  Problems in Selection
  This 'nray be a dress, {skirt, coat, child ’s garment or
  some other needed garment. _
 l Materials combined important. i
W;  Pa.ttern selected suited to material on hand. ‘
  Problems in Constructon V
  Ripping, cleaning, dyeing, pressing, placing pattern
  cutting, constructing.
  Home_ work-—preparc old maaterial at home for cutting and
  making into new garments}
 
  ~ Planning the Wardrobe
  Make a booklet showing wardrobe inventory of clothing on
  · hand; a list of needed clothing and the estimated amount of
  money to be spent on clothing for the year. The money to be
  spent for clothing should not be out of proportion with what
 , ` other members of the family spend on theirs. In dividing the
 Q; clothing money allow 40% for outer clothing, 30% for under-
  clothing, 2o% for shoes and hose, and 5% for miscellaneous.
  The following sheet may help in making the inventory, and in
  showing garments that need replacing. The booklet should
  show pictures (cut out from fashion magazines) of patterns and
  samples of materials for garments as planned in clothing budget.
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D

 J nnior Home Projects in Clothing 23 I I  
E Subject for Discussion pl `  
  1, How much should a. girl spend for her clothing?  
  2. Keeping personal accounts,. .  
  .3. Wise buying for the wardrobe.  
  4. How to clean and press woolens. I `  
  · `  Zzl
  5. Dyeing. · .  
  6. Is remodeling worth while? ‘  
  7. How historic costume is shown in today ’s dress. _ ] · ·  
E h r }
i ` Z  
z .  
 
 
FIRST-YEAR CLOTHING UNIT ~  
Suggested Program for Unit l. Clothing  
l€>¢‘*i .
(Meeting twice a month for 3 months)  
Fmsr lV[1z1zT1No—  
Business—organize club, select name, elect officers.  
Plan definite program for year (may have to leave some V  
— details for officers and le·aders).  
. . .`.J;;i€
Instruot girls about keepnig record books.  
Explain work of the project. l ~ l  
Distribute and explain literature. ,  
Work—explvain ma.kin~g of holder and the towel—Leader  
Show girls how to cut, fold and baste  
i Instruct to bring basted holder and towel to next meeting  
Diseussion—Expllain club work—Home Demonstration Agent  
Teach health c1·eed—Home Demonstration Agent  
l  
El-

 E
Qi .
a .
tr
  24 Kentucky Extension Circular N0. 195
  »
  The equipment needed—t»he sewing box (leader)  
  Standards in junior club sewing—Home Defonstration 1;
  Agent. U
  Play——Learn pledge. N
  Learn two s0ngs—1 humorous, 1 good club song.
  Learn game.
ii  Sncoxn l\[EET1NG—-
  Busi11ess—Bring record books up-to-date.
 ; Secretary complete enrollment. D
  Finish planning program for year.
  VVork—Overhand edges and tie holder and instruct for putting
  on fastener. P
  Instruct to bring for scoring at next meeting.
  Start the hemming of the towel.
  Explain making of apron and headbands. A F
  ‘``- A Instruct to bring material for headband and apron to next B
  meeting.
  . Discussion—Kinds of materials for aprons and hcadbands—one W
  of girls.
  How to work—Leadcr.
  · Pl‘ay—Song.
  Game. ‘
  I THIRD l\[EETING—— U D
  Business——Bring record books up—to—d·ate.
  Score holders and towels.
  Cut headbands and aprons. P]
  `vVork—Baste headband, teach making of outline stitch for
  emblem.
  Explain finishing of headbands and instruct to bring back Sl
 it cap with emblem and stitching done. Bl
  Instruct girls to bring cut out apron to next meeting.
  Discussion———Use and care of sewing m·achine——Lea¤der.
  How cotton material is made——one of girls.
* `il Judging and scoring——Leader.
I _? Play—Song. I W
_e   Game.

 { `
SYQ
 
Junior Home Projects in Clothing 25 V ‘ _  
Fonirrn iMiEETING— A  _ `  
Business—Bring record books up-to-date. T  
Score headbands as far as made. .  
\Vork—Teach making of buttonhole and sewing on button.  
Teach how apron should be stitched. Let girls baste apron V V I I  
and baste on pocket. Discuss trimming. Instruct to bring  
back stitched apron ready for trimming and finishing and I  
first scoring. Instruct girls to bring back headbands for   A  
final scoring. A · i ~ .  
Discussion—Materials suitable for house dresses——one of girls. I  
Instruct as to kind of inaterials to br·in·g for house dress— I  
Leader choosing becoming