xt7jq23qwv7n https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7jq23qwv7n/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1924 journals kaes_circulars_001_3_173 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 173 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 173 1924 2014 true xt7jq23qwv7n section xt7jq23qwv7n COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
Extension Division
THOMAS P. COOPER. Dean and Director
CIRCULAR NO. 173
Selecting, Renovating and Making the Hat
Lexington. Ky.
September. 1924
i`l1Y·li!~h·xI in r·<·1m·v1€<~i1 uiih {lp i\11I`;i"liiYlI`IIi txlollsiuii \\‘0l‘k Cllfried
ON Fw ""*‘?*¤‘I'Jlli¤*Yl ··a` zh·· ¤'··l!··;4· or .\1;1·i·1;E'1:!`¤_ l'x:ivm·si1y of Kentucky,
Willi l!»·· I`, S, l¤»·y·;u—;m,·m nr .\¤;»·i··u1r·11·.— ;1:1·l~IEstz‘i!¤11lui in 1`urthemnce
of UIC \\`01‘k ]¤ro\·i¤h¤I for in ihu A\x·t ni` 4`¤·11:z‘¤`>S of )I:l}' S, NH.
. » s _

 · _  li +11 

 CIRCULAR NO. 173
Selecting, Renovating and Making the Hat
By NELLIE GARD and IRENE M. PIEDALUE
'lvllQ‘ llill 11l:l_\‘ l11· lll1· (°l.l)\\-lllllu glory 111. El \\'O1l12l11?S costume, i
1ll1·l·1·l'111·1·. 1·\‘1·1·_v \\`Ulll1lll Nlllllllll 1·1ll1ix‘:1t1· :1 l·1*t‘llllQ‘ for the attrac-
tiw 11111l Jl]>])I`(>}>I`l{ll1‘.
,\ \\`|¤Ill1H]`S l1:1i1· is il l.l`illlll' l'11l· l11·l· l.2l|‘¢‘ :1s well els fl foun-
1l;11i1»11 l'1·l` l11·1· l1:11; l'11l· lllis l'1‘£i\'*ll s|l1· lllll>I Slllll_\v ll(*l‘ face to
1l1·11~l·111l11·· 1l11~ l11·st 1_\‘]11·11l`l1:1l1·1l1···ss l'1·1· 11.
]_ 'l`ll•· /I//If], .~/1 H1]11’ _lV1l1‘1 lllll~l ll1 1    
ll]`l>flil1‘lII*>lllQ ll|¤‘ ll£lll' Q; *1;  
llill 11111111>11l`1l11·ll1·:11l;1ll1lfl11l`l'_\‘ V 4   { Q`;
1111 1ll1· s11l1·s.   1*
,. . 1 . "";·1~ - ·
2. ll11· l.l}l(]l7/· _/11// j111·1 l\`lll il]*]l¤‘€il`     5
l1·ss lllll 11 1l11· ll&lll' li 1l11l11· llzll °13&*_·~B, ; 4
1111 1l11· sl1l1·s illlll 11ll1·1l lllgll 1·ll D 6
lllll (ll. ll11· ll<‘£l1l. \i/" 1 "
il. A\ /1111y;p11l`11{11/11/1/11 ls111;l1l1·11l1>l‘1·
]111i1111·1l \\`ll(‘ll 1l11· llill|` ls1l1l1l1‘ lll /) ~~
)
il ]111i11l1·1l l<11111 lI2ll‘ l1zl1·l< flll Ill1*   @,1 A
_ (N
ll\\il(l[ lll1·llzll1‘l1:11l l11·111·1· l11· 1l11111· Q -4
lll il soft k1l<>1 :11 1l11· l1111·k 11l` llll‘
l -1 l. /
U " 111111 Good
_ 1 s ,

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l
»
4 Ii`: n!m·/.·_»/ I;'.r/t‘u.<2t»n ('irt·u/ur No. /73
~ - 4. 'il`ht- _/mv it-?//r sqtttzzv _i¤ru·s is Pli fx)
iiimlt-to;ii»i»t-u1·i1i··i··->t-x·t-i·t-wht-ii   -3. K
tht- huh- is purtt-tl iii tht- mitltlh- 4,, _
uml rollt-·l up iii u lioi·ti—lil<·· lush- ` \’
ion on t·ith··1·>i·l··. lllll it l·»<¤-< its `   i
st-xw-i·ity wht-ii tht- huir i< purtt-tl \ ·
ou tht- ~i·l·· umi <‘:lllL1'lll lo·»<¤-l_\· ut /?\ \
tht- ham- t»t` th·- h··u·l. ‘l, lggh ¢"‘l`W
5. ll. Ilia- 4/l-iN /-< 1`~‘¢t/t-1ly/ ll|¤‘ llzIlI‘ lt kg, <;\ )
V lll`t‘>$ >llt¤1ll·l l··· tip olli tht- m-t·l< C X
, \ T ¢`.
, uml ¤w··i· tht- t»·i·»·li~·ml. ·W
llutl tloml
SELECTION OF THE HAT
\\vith th·- llilll' ill'l`£lllQ'·‘tl to gin- th·· 1m· i~tl1t-»t·l·-t·tio11 ot'tlit-~l1upt·o[
the hut.
1. The zvotzol j`·r»» \‘ft*£tI`> l»··~t uni itptttriiiiig l»i·ini with illl llll—
evt-11 t-·lg·.· lim-. l·t···u11tly·»t`1`tl1··t`u···-.
2. 'l`h·· long; ti.t/-i‘hoiil·l wt-ut- u >ot`t low t~i-own with g-t
u ¤l1·ooI»iiiz‘ 1m··li·mi wi·lt- hrim. ··t`
3. '1`lit-f/-M or .~i~·tl»»m».ol't lim-. slightly tlrooiiiiig hriiii l·tt
to (‘··l·-vn-tl litwuiist- it i< lit-voiiiiiig to thc utt
wcu1‘t·1- in lii1·· uml i-: t·olot‘ uml i» suituhl·· l`oi· tht- i···»t ot` tht- fw
COS'tl11m- with whi··h it i< to l».· worn. hut m-vt-i· l>t‘l‘Jlll>t‘ it i< or
· fusliioiiuhlt- or l·t’t‘;lll~t‘ .\li·s. Nt--lo
than tht- r-luhoi-ut··_ gumly tyiws ol` huts, hut
]>t·t·i
I   ]it

 .\'1/11·l/111;, I1'11m1·11//111; 11111/ .]I11L·/ug //111 Hal 5
’ 11] , , 1 Q.
$$7 .  
*1   1 `7 J5
~ 1 1
  \j\ ”\ ys /\ /`\ /1
\
1 1
;1¤_1\¤v c,»:x»:.£».·,,\ `11,w¤ Tw·l¤¤vv\
1: , 1  @4: 1 Q?  
fry  F/   { \_ Eg  
4 · {T %i \ /
\1> :1 11 :11 /1 {111
k\\ 1 J i
—‘-“_'_b_nr“ 11 _ .» 1 T’1~¥· 1-, p\u,>K\_‘Q¤\_\
'I`_1·11· s 111 11:11s.
N1] ···· 1 :1 ]1:11 11]1i1·h i~ s11i1··1] 1'··1· t]11· 11~1·111 11’]1i1·]1_1‘1111 11111s1
11111 11. .\ ]:11·;·~ ]11·i1111111··] ]1:11 is ]1:11] 1.111* 111111111·i11u‘; il ]:11-1- ]1:11 is1111I
1·1` 11]:111 11]11·11 11~1·1] 11i1]1 :1 1:1i]1·1·1·1] ~11i1 1111 :1 s]1111111i11g 1111111.
]`]]]]lI~_\` 111:;1··1·i:1]<. ~11··h :1s 111:1]i111· :1111] g1·111·g·1·111~. :11·1· 111is11s01]
11`h1·11 111;1·1·~ i11111 1111]1:111<; Ii]11·11’i~1·. 1]1·]i1·:11·· 11i11]I'_ i111]11111]. 1111* :111)‘
]·111 :1 ~111111111·1· ]1:11 111 i]1‘ ·.1·111·11 11*i1]1 ]igh1 1]1·11s~11<.
S11 ]!lJ|]I_\` 11‘111111·11 :11··· I`11111] 11]. 11‘1·:11·i11g· :1 111·i]. ']`]1isis11111 :211
:1111·:11·1i1‘1·:11]1]i1i·111 1111]1·s» 11·1·]] ~1·]1·1·11·1] :1111] 11*1·]] 11‘111·11. ']`]11·1‘1·i]
i<11~1·1] 111 i11·1·;:]1 1]11· 111111] ].]'·1]ll 1h1- 1`:11·1·. ]111]1] 1h1· ]1:1i1· i11 11]:11*11
1·1‘ 111 111:1]11· 1]11· ]1:11 111111·1· ]i1·111 1111.111 1h1· ]11·:11]; s111111·1i1111·s iT is
]··gi1i111:111·]_1‘11~1·1]:1s11·i111111i11g· ]'111· 1]11— ]1:11. ]11 1111 1·:1<1~ S]ll1ll]1] the
1]1~sig11 ]11· s111·h 111:11 1]11· 11isi1111 is 11]1s11·111·11—1] hy ]111:11’1 spots.
']`]11· 1'1]]11]' 11]. 1]11— ]1:11 IIIIINT ]11— ]1111]1 ]](`(A(]]]]i]]g 111 the 11’1*:11‘c1‘
:1111] i11 ]1:11·1111111_1‘ 11‘i1]1 1]11· 1·]111h1·s 11`i1h 11‘]1i1·]1 i1 is 111 he 111111*11.
']`h1· s111111 11·11111:111 ('JIII 11‘1·:11· 1111]_1· il 1’1~1·_1’ s111:1]] s11111 of ]\l`iQ`]1t-
1·11]111· 1111 ]11·1· ]1:11. ]·`111· 1h11 1111~1]i11111 si‘<1·1] :1111] s]1·111]111· 110111:111 1hc
]1:11 111:1_1· ]11· 1]11~ ]11·ig‘]11 s11111 i11 1]11· 111]11·1·11‘is1— 1]:11·]< 1‘1]$]\Illl(‘. 11s-
]]¤‘1‘]i1]]_\' $1111*1- 111:111_1‘ 111·11[1]1— 1·:111 \\`1‘iIl` il 1·11]111‘ 1111 The ]11‘:11] \\’]1i1‘]1 ‘
is 11111 ]11‘·1·<1111i11g i11 il (]I`1‘S¥. ']`h1· hrig]11 l‘1)](]]'1‘1] ]lE]i' is 11111 good
. \ .

 in 
l
I
G 1i'¢nfiu·/:y ]z`.r/tiiixiwn ('irt·ulur Xu lb`.?
f01‘ lOl]g! (‘O1lillllll‘ll \\'1‘ill`. i`0l' l‘\'l‘l')'Ull(* Ill`l‘S lil- S<‘l‘lll;§ li; lll(‘ll,
too, cvoryoiic knows who is vlmiiiig \\'lll‘ll that hut is svcu at long E
way oil?. I
 
V SIZE OF THE HAT _
.:\ ]lll‘llllllli llilt   lIl0l'<‘ gl‘llt‘i`illl}’ llt‘l‘l\liilll§ lllilll {lily l>Ill|*l' I
size uml is ccrtuiiily num- pi·:i<·tit·:nl l`t»i· ;;oi1·~1·;il w<·;u·. 'l`h·· l;u·g·~ [
i hilt   Olli of Pl2ll‘<‘ i·Ol' 2\ll}' llllt (ll`t*S$ \\'t‘2ll` illltl l‘\'t‘ll illt‘ll   lilll [
hco0ii1itigt·>tl1t= \‘¤~1·y smaill l`:i<·¢~, lm- it ]>1· tl1•· >l1<·1·t_ ~llillI tigui·t·_ {tit- it
V ` I`11Hl{QS ilS 2l]WpC&ll`LlIlCL‘ l)l'Uillll`l\*l` lllilll <‘\'t*I'. This l;1>t
fZ`lL‘t $liU\\'$ Illill il llili lllllil Il4‘\`l‘l' ll•‘ (‘ll<·¢·i;1ll)` the llf*llIt·.lll2ltlt* hat is hetter with little
trimming. as the noviee is seldom ahle to arrange trimmings at-
traetively.
CARE OF THE HAT
'l`h·· two essentials for keeping the l1at in good condition i
while it is heing worn are; tl t (`areful hrnshing so that dust is
not allowed In imhed itselt` in the weave ot` the fahrie—a rain-
drop on dusty velvet, silk or straw is dillieult to remove: a soft
hrush is good to elean most hats. ln1t :1 pieee of velvet wrapped
ahout the lingers eleans velvet and straw hats very well; (2) the
hat. when taken from lll(’ head. should not he thrown down any-
\\'l1¢‘I'(‘7:~ll2illQ it up oy- stutl' the erown with :1 hall of soft paper
until the hrim is just lil`ted from the shelf. -\ still hetter l1:1t
stand is :1 pi·ee ot` eardhoard whieh has heen rolled to form :1
eone. 'l`op the point ot` the eo11e witl1 a hall of tissue p:1per for
the erown to rest against. l11 addition to these things, handle
your hat properly—slip the hand under tl1e hrim. wit}1 the
lllllllllt just over the l1l`llll edge a11d the tingers j11st inside the
ll0Z`ltl size.
\\`hen hats are to he kept from one season to Hll0l'llt"l`. wrap
them earelully in tissue paper. then park in hoxes away from
dust and inserts.
. RENOVATION
A. S'tr0n· Hats
1. White straw that is snnhurned l‘HllllOl` he eleaned sue-
eesslully. It may he ehanged to an attraetive yellow
hy dipping i11 a strong solution of soda water for a few
minutes: or it may he dyed with eonnnereial dyes for
that purpose, or top faeing and erown eover may be
made of georgette or erepe de ehine.
s .

  t
 `
8 Ii'tn{ttt-/t‘!/ I;`.t·/t·nstt·n ('[rt·ttlttr .\`o. l}`.‘»’
2. Natural t·t-lor straw hats may ht- washetl with ivory
s0ap_ tt-pitl watt-r antl a soft lvrnsh. or t·lt-ant-tl with
prt-parations olttainalilt- at any tlrng stort-. llarlt l»lnt-
is 1`rt-slit-nt-tl hy using ortlinary washing l>lnt·in;;. .\t`tt-r
- tlioro hrushing. a l>lat·l< hat may ht- wipt-tl with milk.
using a pit-vc ol` vt-lvt-t to put in on, tht-n wiping it otl`
‘ cart-t'ully. l·`or lnrnsliing a tlarlt straw. tht- hrush nitty
bc tlampt-nt-tl in watt-r with a littlt- ammonia atltlt-tl.
After any t·lt-aning, whilc tht- straw is still tlamp. prt-ss
with a hot iron to hring hat·l{ the stitl'nt-ss. l)o not put
\
 
.,· — '7\ -\
‘·¥* ? wi z
  ——-— €in*T./,7
 
* l
Pressing lvriin.
Pressing side crown.
l
the iron (`lil`("('ll}Y Zl;1`illll$t lll(* llill. illlll llNt* ('{ll`|l llttl lll
prt-ss tht- hat out ol` shapt-. 'I`o prt·ss tht- lirim. lay tht-
liztt on tht- talilt- upsitlt- tlown. with tht- t·rown hanuinu
¢¤\`t‘l' tht- t·tlut· ol' tht- taltlt-. l,:1y two thit·ltnt-sst·s ol` t·lo!li
Y 01* liczivy papt-r ovt-r tht- lirim so that tht- iron will not
t0ut·h it: kt-t·p rt-volying tht- hat nntil tht- wholt- ltriin
has l>t·t-n prt-ssetl. l‘rt-ss tht- t·rown t`rom tht- insitlt-; lt-t
the brim hang ovt-r tht- otlgt- antl tht- sitlt- ol` tht- t·rown
. lie 0n tht- prt-ssingr lioartl. Nt-t tht- hat on its t·rown in
0rtlc·r t0 press the tip. lloltl tht- iron in sut·h a position
that it t0ut:ht-S tht- hat. only wht·rt- tht- hat rt-sts on tht-
taltlt-. in 0rI1 Ol. \\'lllIC SOUP Hlltl \\`2lI`ll1 Wl·lt€I‘ Hliiy i
do very well.
6. Straw hats may be stifl`encd by brushing with the white
of an egg. Another good stidener is a gum arabic solu-
tion; this may be made by adding two level tablespoons
of gum arabie to one eup of boiling water. Stir while
boiling until the powder is dissolved. whieh will be
about 20 minutes. Let the solution eool; then apply to
the hat with a eloth or brush.
B. Stcaniing lllrcl
1. Plaee a hot iron with the Hat side up; over this put
several thieknesses ot` damp eloth. Pass the velvet, =
right side up, baek and forth over the steaming eloth;
use a soft. brush to lit`t the nap by gentle brushing while
the steam is eoming thru the velvet and making the pile
pliable. (`are should be taken that the velvet does not
heeome wet, also that the material is not handled after
this treatment until it is thoroly dry.
{ {il/’r\`l,ll\i
\\ /» I  
y @
Steaniinglvet over a Steaming velvet over inverted
teakettle spout. iron and damp eloth. Y
\ .

  { .
]O ]\'(`}IilIt‘b'_l/ Iz'.i·/e*nsion ('ireu/ar No. /73
l A 2. If there are so many wrinkles that steaming will not
completely remove them. the material may he
"panned." This is done hy putting the iron direetly —
against the nap on the right side. and smoothing it
V flat hy shoving the iron always in the same direetion
and lifting it on the haeltward stroke. Keep the iron
moving when it is against the eloth_ l`or il` it is allowed
to stand in one spot the impt·int ot` the iron will remain.
Do not press hard.
. _ C. Ribbons may he t`reshened hy steaming. washing with gaso-
line, or with soap and \\’zltet‘. Steamiug does not elean; it
merely takes out the ereases. \\`hen rihhons are to he
cleaned in gasoline. it is well to let them stand immersed in
it for about two hours het'ore working them to remove the
l dirt. lf soap and water are to he used. make a suds: never
rub the soap on the ribbons. Tn all eases the materials
should be squeezed. 11ever ruhhed. and thoroly rinsed. Rih-
bons may he pressed hetween several thieknesses of paper
with a moderately hot iron; instead of pressing, a ribbon
may be wound around and around a bottle whieh has been
covered with a elean smooth pieee of eloth.
D. Flowers whieh are faded and erushed may sometimes he
made usable again hy retinting with water eolors or oil
paints; then each petal should he pressed gently with a _
I warm iron. ln most eases it is advisable to throw away N
faded flowers. sinee it is mueh better not to attempt a n_
grandeur whieh may fall short of attaimnent.  
E. Always keep {In lining of the hat fresh and elean. 'l`his may
be aeeomplisln-d hy ripping the lining out. washing and re-
V placing it: 2ll1}' soil whieh is held in the lining, or any other \
· part of the hat. hy oil from the head or hands, may he re- A
leased by removing the oil; a good agent l`or this is mag-
nesia. Rub the magnesia into the soiled spot, then allow it
i to stand for at least 24 hours, or sut`lieientl_y long l`or the
magnesia to absorb the oil, after whieh the material should
brush clean.

 .\'i/in/{uy, Ii'ww:·¢1/[uy uml .llIlA`l•)1{] I/10 Ilut 11
F, Y`/0 pupu/¢n· fd! may ho cI¢·anch IllUI'Ul_\`.
4. Sunil] »p0ts usually may lu; 1·t~iiiovr~p<·a1‘.
MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR HAT COVERING
Imrk Iirmvn nr tlurk Malinc
i»]u·· outing Orzantlic
\'t·1vvt (iinzliam
I)uv¢·tyn ll()I`F12—llZlII` braid
\`0I0tir
\v(ll'i(1ll!< straw braids Satin-ha<·k crepe
'I`afTa·ta (`i·0p¤> tic china
Satin (l¤·0i·:0tt0 crvpc
(`aitlttnn <·t‘¢·p<· \`0il0
.\ll·»t'thi~··iuati·1·ial» shnultl lm aifgnml ui1alit_\‘t0g‘iv<· g00d
rosults. illt.
MAKING THE HAT
A. [Util':] Htl?
1. )lat··t·ials110<·I`llll with tht- t11·t-1·t·:1sti11g or
knot stitt·h1 l3t- snrt- to st-w tl1t- ltintling h;1t·k tin.
This 111:15* bt- tlont- witl1 latrgt- l1:1t·l< stitt·ht-s. .\ l.l'2lllll‘
that is slightly tlroopt-tl 111:15* bt- llliltlv to roll by rnltlting
1 the t0p of thc l}1'llI1 witl1 :1 tl1i111l1lt-.
3. Brazil
$01110 gootl brztitls ]ll2l}' l1t- btntuht at tht- tt-n ct-nt
st0rc-s. A gootl ttnztlity is sot`t ztntl lirntly wt»vt-11.
A lf tht- fratntt- shows llll'll tl1t- hrztitl. t“¤'>\`l‘l‘ tl1t- shatpc
with inzitoriztl tht- >2llllt‘ t·olor tts tl1t- hrttitl t11· t·olt11- shttpt-
with <·0n1n1t-rt-iztl hett tlyt-. lnk will tlt1 it` (‘tlll\l` is right.
To st·w on l1r:1itl. ht-gin :1t tl1t- lll`llll t-tlgo in tht-
vt-ntt-r l1a1t·l<. Qlllll lt-t tht-l11·:1itl t-xtt-ntl El< t`;11· on ont- sitlt-
0f tht- lll'llIl t-tluti :1s o11 tht- tttht-r. St-w it :11·t111ntl nt-:1r
I thc ctlgzc of tht- hrnitl Tlll'll tl1t- lIl‘2lll1t‘ 1111tl l1t·th t-tlgt-s ot`
brziitl with tht- stub stitt·ht-s LQ i11t-l1 long. 'l`l1t- stub
stitch is nnttlt- by pushing tl1t- 11t-t-tllt-t-lt-111-tI11·11 tht- 111:1-
tc-rittls 2111tl tl1t-11 l1z11·l< i11 tI1t- N$Illlt‘ lII2llIllt'l'. \\'llt‘ll tht-
hrztitl L'Olll<‘S 2ll't1lllltl to tl1t- lt(’QlIlIllllQ’. tnrn it lllItll‘I'
about   int·h 011 tht- t-ntl Zllltl bring it ovt-r tht- t·tht-r
i @11tl.sc-wtlowii tlttt. bt-ing (‘2ll`t*l.|ll llttli to httvt- tiny l.I`2l}'t‘tl
t-tlut-s \lltl\\`lll!`. l·`t»1· tl1t- llttt l1l'lllll]1<‘tl httt tht- 1111tlt-1- sitlt-
is 00vt-rctl first; for :111 ll[)llll'l1(‘tl l1:1t. tl1t- top shttnltl ht-
covcrc-tl first. lit-gin :1t tht- btttek. l>1'llltIlllQ` tht- t-tlgt- t1t`
` thc braid to tht- ctlgc oftltobrini 1111tlstitt·h it inst l1t-low
thc brim ctlgc wirc, with :1 snittll stitt·l1 o11 tl1t- right sitlt-
and 21 long stitch (about % in.) 011 tho ll])[)t'l' sitlt-. I11

 ,\'t·/trliny, Ii’cnu1·u/[uy and .l[(IL`l·/lg [hc Hut 13
starting thc strroinl row, <·ovt·i· thc und and gradually
slopr tht- vtlgr ol' the hraitl so that it just covers thc in-
si·l•· rtlgo nl` the lirst row, and kccp on in the samc man-
nrr until thu nntl<·i- hriin is (fU\'l‘I'(,‘(l. \\`h<·n thc braid
is t|uit¤· witha it is SOIIl(‘lllll<‘S nc<·r·ssary to draw up the
insitlv <·(!1lU])UCl{€l`S. Allow
tht~ last row to rxttnitl up into the hcadsizc. If one
sitio nt' tha hriin is wit*l' sith~ ol` the hrini is ('(T\`t‘l'L‘ll in thc same
in:nin··i· nxt-t-pt that thu stilting stitrh is usotl so that it
will not shaw on t·itlu·r sitio. 'l`his stitch is unulu hy in-
rliuiug thv in—t·tllt— at an anglu and slippuig it along thru
t`r:inu~ towartl thu loft. Bring point of iu¤t~tllt· up about
lj to Ki iu. l`roin point wlivrti it was tirst thrust into the
hat.
ll` tho hat is to ha I'at·t·tl with silk or sonio othor ina- _
\ .

 i 7»i.—-.77.77 rrrr   7777 .777 7__t7 .77
1, ,
.1-1 Irozrliteky Izhrlensren ('irru/ur No, I?.`»‘
i terial. the under side ol` the braid whieh is sewed ou
the edge ofthe briiu is lel`t loose, theu the braid is sewed
011 the upper side of the brim aud the edge ot` the rua-
terial is slipped uuder the briui edge braid to the eud
of the hriiu aud the braid is fasteued ou the edge thru
the silk with the stiltiug stiteh. l*`o1‘1·11lll11;.f:1111l tittiug
the faeiug. see direetious giveu iu eoveriug eloth hut.
The f21e1l1g.! I11z1}' also be put (lll o\‘<*1‘ 2111 edge \\'i1‘¤·. |Sl'l‘
directions for faeiug cloth hat}
(l(}l`i}`liII1] //11 ('rozru. lt is best to begiu at the
` base of the erowu iu the eeuter ot` the bael;. liet the
tinished edge of the braid be dowu aud let it exteud
about 1 16 of au iueh below the base ol` the erowu.
'1`uek the eud of the braid uuder the erowu aud sew the
~ braid around using small stitehes ou top aud long
stitches uuderueath. \\'heu nearing; the top of the
crown the braid will need to be gathered ou the iuside
edge by uieaus of a eord at edge ot` braid to make it tit.
\\`hen the t0p is reached the braid is brought arouud
in a complete eirele or 0val. depeudiug ou the shape ot`
the erowu. The end may be tuelced under or a slit eut
in the center of the erowu aud the eud slipped thru.
After the hat is finished a flatter etTeet may be pro-
duced by pressing with a warui iron. Be sure that the
iron is not hot.
ff",
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. ¤¤s.,; ¤m¤*»· sa E a;
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Braid scuucd Bvaid sented
around and uvound, gxounyxd and
l€\'\(5Tl'\ lLAi\S€ 0r\‘l0p.

 .\'t·/¢t·lt`uy, [lil'}!/Il'fI[li}lf] mul .ll(lth`(iIIf] //10 lla! 15
B. (`/ul/1 Hu!
May be made al' velvet. tlnvetyn. silk, gingliam or other suit-
able inaterial. l’la<·e the bias of the material at the front
(ll.ill1‘ll[>!N‘l'Nl(lt·()i·llI(‘ brim. Fasten it securely to the brim
edge with a pin. Snmotli ont the material over the brim
Stn that the gomls will be on the bias from the front to the
baek, lt` a seam is nt·t·essar_v to make the material eover the
brim ~tm»t»tlily_ adjust the material so that the seam comes
in at tht- t···nter baek. New the seant by machine or by hand;
it the latter. use the baek stiteh or tiny running stitches.
Fpreatl the seam open tiat. l’nt in a pin on the brim edge `
wln·rt· the straight nli the material comes. next to the tirst
pin. l·`t·llt»w the straight ol` the goods to the opposite side
and pnll it emtnuli to make the material be very smooth;
]i1l$l¢‘ll st-t·tn···l_—.· with pin. l’in st···nrt·ly all around the brim.
having the pins almnt two in··ht·s apart. (`nt oft material
sn ix pi··»4]·t·ts about lj int-h l·¤·_vontl the edge ol' the brim.
('nt ont lieatlsize. leavinu about T?] in<·h ot` material extend
altove brim. <'lip this material. being t·art·t`nl not to rut it
too {ar. an·l again Nil't’Il‘ll the eloth to brim until there is not
a wrinkl·· in it. 'l`ht~ edge ol` the <·l·»th at ltrim may need to
be trinnneti al`tt·r this prt»¤·ess, 'l`urn the eloth over the
brim ···lu·- and t·att·h it down to the binding with diagonal
bastii.: ~lll¤·lt. l·`astt·n along lteatlsize with long stab
stit.·ht·s.
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