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<·Q.-.·-`,`t x . . . .. . . . . _;_ I

 4- *
THE AMERICAN GUIDE SERIES
. COUNTRY
· Written by Workers of the Federal Writers' Project of the i
Works Progress Administration for the State of Kentucky.
SPONSORED BY THE CITY OF LEXINGTON
{ _` .
5
E 3
  .
W
· lu.us·rnAreo
if
  E. M. GLASS, Publisher, Lexington
iv The Connnercial Printing Co. Press
i 1938

 &
·\
. '\
Qsp. .. ',`.· — . . _ _ V _  

 . Copyright applied for by
City of Lexington, Kentucky
All Rights Reserved Including the Right to Reproduce
This Book or Parts Thereof in Any Form
COMMERCIAL PRINTING CO. A
LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY
Printed in the U. S. A.
1
1

 
 F 0 R E W 0 R D
Lexington and the Bluegrass Country is one of the publica-
tions written by members of the Federal Writers’ Project of the
Works Progress Administration. Designed primarily to give use-
ful employment to needy unemployed writers and research work-
ers, this project has utilized their experience and abilities in the
preparation for the American people of a portrait of America-
its history, folklore, cultural background, social and economic
trends, and racial factors.
Many books and brochures are being written for the Ameri-
can Guide Series. As they appear in increasing numbers we hope
the public will come to appreciate more fully not only the un-
usual scope of all this undertaking, but also the devotion shown
by the workers—from the humblest field worker to the most ac-
complished editor engaged in the final critical revision of the
manuscript. The Federal Writers' Project, directed by Henry G.
Alsberg, is in the Division of W0men’s and Professional Projects,
under Ellen S. Woodward, Assistant Administrator.
HARRY L. HOPKINS
Administrator

 
 _ ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The editors of Lexington and the Bluegrass Country espec-
ially acknowledge their gratitude to Charles R. Staples for his
History of Lexington, and for reading the completed manuscript.
J. Winston Coleman, Jr., and T. D. Clark also read the com-
pleted manuscript and generously made valuable criticisms and
suggestions.   A. Estes, editor of the Blood Horse, read the tours
and contributed much to their preparation. Many citizens of
Lexington and surrounding country assisted the staff and re-
search workers by supplying facts and valuable information for
this book.
Those interested in procuring copies of the Kentucky Guide,
the Washington City and Capital Guide, or any other books of
the American Guide Series, may make inquiry to the Federal
Writers’ Project, 1734 New York Ave. NW., Washington, D. C.
Editors
FEDERAL WRITERS' PROJECT
Ninth and Broadway
Louisville, Kentucky

 
  
P R E F A C E
Lexington, named after the historic battle of Lexington, is
the heart of central Kentucky and the metropolis of the rich
stock farm and agricultural area known far and wide as the
Bluegrass region.
It is associated with the deeds of Daniel Boone, Simon Ken-
ton, and other pioneers, reared to the martial music of the War
between the States, and rich with the pungency of burley to-
A bacco, the unforgettable rhythmic thud of the thoroughbreds,
and the faint smoky haze of bluegrass. The loose-leaf tobacco
market, the production of bluegrass seed. and the breeding of
thoroughbred, standard bred and saddle horses, cattle, hogs and
sheep, bring millions of dollars into the city yearly. Many of
the youth of the State are educated by the University of Ken-
tucky, or Transylvania, the Hrst college west of the Alleghenies. -
Around the city at varying distances of from I2 to 40 miles
are small agricultural and educational centers, where retired
farmers live in peaceful southern homes. Inseparably linked
with the colorful history of. the Bluegrass country are those im-
perishable names that have enriched the present generation and
will inspire generations yet unborn, for the Bluegrass knew
jefferson Davis, john C. Breckinridge, Henry Clay, Abraham
Lincoln, jolm Hunt Morgan, George Rogers Clark, Isaac Shelby,
Ephraim McDowell, Daniel Boone, john Bradford, Constantine
Rahnesque, Audubon, and Thomas Barlow.
To those who love the colorful past blended with the vivid-
ness of modern life, this guide to Lexington and the surround-
ing Bluegrass should prove a volume compact with interest.
E. REED WILSON
Mayor, City of Lexington

 0
\ I
 

  
TABLE OF CONTENTS `
FOREIVORD iii
ACKNOWLEDGMENT v
PREFACE vii
GENERAL INFORMATION xi—xii
ILLUSTRATIONS xiii—xiv
LEXINGTON AND ENVIRONS 1-7
HISTORY 8-21
POINTS OF INTEREST 21-25
CITY TOURS
A — Courthouse — Gratz Park — Transylvania 25
B —]eFfers0n Davis and Mary Todd (Lincoln) Homes 37
C — Downtown —— Lexington Cemetery 44
D — Ashland — Loudoun 51
E — University of Kentucky 57
F — Industrial Tour 65
POINTS OF INTEREST NOT ON TOURS 7l
ENVIRONS TOURS INTRODUCTION 76
ENVIRONS POINTS OF INTEREST
. Tour 1 — Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station 80
' 2 — Trotting Track —— Wilmore — High Bridge Park 32
3 — Versailles — Midway 85
4 —— Old Frankfort Pike —- Frankfort — Georgetown 92
5 — Newtown Pike Horse Farms 101
6 — Russell Cave Pike Horse Farms 103
7 — Paris Pike Horse Farms 105
8 — Paris —— Cane Ridge — Bryan Station 103
9 —- \Vinchester — Boonesborough 115
10 — Richmond — Berea — Scenic Tour 120
ll — Kentucky Gorge — Dix Dam — Harrodsburg Tour 124
CHRONOLOGY 132.143

 
  
GENERAL INFORMATION
 
Railroad Stations: Louisville 8; Nashville R. R. (L&N), Chesapeake S: Ohio
Ry. (C8¤O), Union Depot, E. Main St. at Viaduct; Southern Ry., S.
Broadway and Angliana Ave.
Bus Station: Greyhound, Phillips, Fleenor, Nunnelly, and Cooper lines,
Union Bus Station, 244 E. Main St.
Airport: Municipal Airport, on Newtown Pike; 6 m., taxi fare $1.
Streetcars and Basses: 5c, transfers interchangeable.
Accommodations: First class hotel accommodations at hotels. Tourist homes
within the city and camps a few miles without are numerous and gen-
erally satisfactory. .
Restaurants: Excellent service at reasonable prices.
_ Streets: Streets numbered N. and S. from Main, and E. and W. from Lime-
stone St.
Tragic Regulations: Turns in either direction at intersections of all streets
except where trafhc lights direct otherwise; vehicle to R. always has right
of way. When making L. turn take inside lane. Free parking (1 hr.) on
Main St. between Spring and Rose Sts. Curb signs indicate parking
limitations. All·night parking permitted in residential sections.
Riding: Cavalry Club, Henry Clay Blvd.
Polo: Polo matches, Iroquois Hunt 8: Polo Grounds, 6 m. E. of Lexington
on US 60, adm. free, boxes reserved for the season, june through Sep-
tember.
Golf: Picadome Golf Course, 18 holes, 50c weekdays, 75c Saturdays and Sun-
days, S. Broadway (US 68), 2 m.
Swimming: joyland Park, N. on Limestone St. (US 27) 4 m. N. of Lexington,
adm., adults 44c, children 25c. ]0hnson’s Mill, N. on Newtown R., l2 m.
Minimum rate. Beaches on Kentucky River at Clay's Ferry, Boones-
borough, Valley View. Minimum charges.
Tennis: Woodland Park, Mloodland and High Sts., free; Duncan Park, Lime-
stone and 5th Sts., free; University of Kentucky, Rose St., l0c an hour.
Foofballz Stoll Field, University of Kentucky, Rose St. and Euclid Ave.,
Thomas Field, Transylvania College, N. Broadway and 7th Sts.
Basketball: University of Kentucky Gymnasium, S. Limestone St. and Euclid
Ave.; Transylvania College Gymnasium, N. Broadway and W. 4th Sts.
Dancing: joyland Park Casino (clubhouse in winter), N. on US 27, 4 m.
Monday and Thursday, l5c: Tuesday, \Vednesday, Friday, and Sunday,
25c. Saturday 40c. Lynwood Inn, N. Broadway, free dancing, dinner $1.
Springhurst, S. Broadway (US 68), 50c (Saturdays 75c). Halcyon Hall,
N. on US 25, 4 m., E. on Richmond Rd., 2 m., 40c; dinner $1, no cover .
charge. Minimum charges.
Annual Events: Lexington Horse Show, movable date continuing one week
during latter part of july. 4-H Clubs and Future Farmers’ Fair, Trot-

 ting track on S. Broadway, movable date in September, inquire of County
Agricultural Agent, Federal Building. Blessing of the Hounds, Iroquois
Hunt Club, L. off US 25 on Grimes Mill Rd., first Saturday in November.
Highways: Routes US 25, 27, 60, and 68 are marked through Lexington.
Information Service: Lafayette Hotel, E. Main St. at Viaduct; Phoenix Hotel,
E. Main St. at Limestone St.; Board of Commerce, Main and Upper Sts.
(entrance on Upper); Bluegrass Auto Club on Esplanade.
Zero Milestone: Point of departure for all tours, both city and environs. On
: E. Main St., at the exit of Union Station Concourse, at the foot of the
Viaduct adjacent to Lafayette Hotel. Tour mileages are computed from
point to point, and do not include mileage accumulated while inspect-
ing points of interest, or on side tours indicated.
Maps: The map of Lexington environs, of the city of Lexington, and the
tour maps are arranged in sequence to give a comprehensive view of the
entire tours area in relation to Lexington, then of the city as a whole,
and finally of the several city and environs tours in detail.
Points of Interest: Numbered consecutively, for Lexington, l-74; for the V
environs, 93-217. Numbers 75-92 inclusive, not listed on any tour, may
neighborhood. Many growers came from the surrounding country to see
Theaters: Six moving picture theaters. The Little Theater at Transylvania
College and the Guignol at the University of Kentucky oller plays during
school terms.
Racing: Keeneland, April and October meetings, 5 m. W'. of Lexington on
US 60, men $1, women 50c.
'1`rots: Kentucky Trotting Horse Breeders’ Assn., june and September meet-
ings, R. off Broadway at Tattersall‘s, $1 a person plus State tax.
l

  
ILLUSTRATIONS
 
Page
Daniel Boone, etching ........... 1
Reproduction of Fort Harrod, Harrodsburg ...... 2
Shakertown Inn ............. 2 ·
Mount Lebanon ............. 2
First Courthouse, Fayette County ......... 3
Fayette County Courthouse, destroyed by fire in 1897 .... 3
Present Fayette County Courthouse ......... 3
Market Day on Cheapside in 1887 ......... 4
Cane Ridge Meeting House .......... 4
Mary Todd Lincoln Home ....... . . . 4
Old Capitol, Frankfort ........... 5
Ashland ............... 5
Loudoun ........... ` .... 5
Monument of Henry Clay .......... 6
King Solomon Monument ........... 7
Capitol Building, Frankfort .......... 6
james Lane Allen Schoolroom .......... 7
Fountain of Youth, Gratz Park ......... 7
Hopemont .............. 7
Benjamin Gratz Home ........... 7
Shropshire Home, Georgetown .......... 8
Keen Home .............. 8
Scarlet Gate .............. 8
Alleghan Hall ............ ~ . 9
junius Ward Home, Georgetown ......... 9
Showalter House, Georgetown ......,... 9
V Municipal Building ............ 10
Federal Building and Postofllce ......... 10
United States Veterans’ Hospital ......... 11
United States Public Health Service Hospital ...... ll
Administration Building. University of Kentucky ....i 12
Memorial Hall, University of Kentucky ........ 12
Aerial View, University ot Kentucky ........ 12
Morrison Hall, Transylvania .......... 13
College of the Bible, Transylvania ......... 13
Ivy-Covered Building, Transylvania ......... 13
Henry Clay High School ........... 14
Giddings Hall, Georgetown College ........ 14
Centre College, Danville ........... 14
Idle Hour Farm ............. 15
Keeneland Race Course ........... 15
Aerial View of Calumet Farm .......... 15
Man o` War .............. 16
Statue of Fair Play .......1..., 16
Lexington .............. 16
Saddle Horse Barn, Dixiana Farm ......... 17
Kingsport, Winganeek Farm .......... 17
Horse Barn, Dixiana Farm ......,.... 17
Tomb of Guy Axworthy .........., 18
Bluegrass Trotters in Action .......... 18

 _ Polo Match, Iroquois Polo Field ......... 18
Tomb of Nancy Hanks ........... 19
Guy Day, Trotter ............. 19
Huntsrnen and Hounds ........... 20
The Fox Hunt ............. 20
Covered Bridge ............. 20
The Blessing of the Hounds .......... 21
Grimes Mill House ............ 21
Burley Tobacco Bed ......,..... 22
Tobacco Crop at Maturity ........... 22
Cutting Burley Tobacco ........... 23
Bluegrass Farmer Inspects Crop .... . .... 23
Tobacco in Warehouse, Lexington ......... 23
Bluegrass Pasture ............. 24
\Vheat Field . ............. 24
Sheep Scene in Fayette County ...,.,.... 24
Black Cattle .............. 25
T Berea College Farm, Berea ...... , .... 25
Hemp Field .............. 25
Dix Dain and Herrington Lake ......... 26
Typical Kentucky Distillery .......... 26
Foothills of the Kentucky Mountains ........ 27
A Country Bluegrass Lane ........... 27
Kentucky River and Palisades .......... 28
Kentucky River Scene ............ 28
V Kentucky River at High Bridge ......... 28
Kentucky River at Boonesborough ......... 29 -
Kentucky River from Camp Nelson Bridge ....... 29
Trotters at Walnut Hall Farm .......... 30
Home owned by Mrs. Payne \Vhitney. Greentree Farm .... 31
Castleton Farm .......i..... 31
Scene at Camp Nelson .......i.... 32
Old Kentucky Race Course, Lexington ........ 32
 
Photographs, G4; T. B. Simmons, Danville; Caufield & Shock, Inc.; Aero-
Graphic Corp.; Lafayette Studio; Thoroughbred Record Magazine.

  
LEXINGTON AND ENVIRONS
T 0 D A Y
LEXINGTON (957 alt., 45,736 pop.), is the premier city of the
Bluegrass region and the third largest city in Kentucky. If the
outlying area contiguous with the city proper be included, the
city has (1938) in excess of 60,000 inhabitants. The topography
of Lexington is rolling. Some of the hills, especially those north
and south from Main St., are quite steep but not long. The
business section is located in a valley through which ran the
Town Branch on which the first settlement took its stand. The
branch has been covered by the Chesapeake 8e Ohio Railway
tracks that parallel Main St. to the north and High St. to the
south. The city has grown north and south of the branch and
. eastward. There is no social distinction, however, between the
north and south sides. Transylvania College is north and the
University of Kentucky is south.
Lexington has the earmarks of age. Many of the streets are
narrow and the sense of narrowness is increased by numerous
old houses bordering the sidewalks. Stately mansions, however,
are set back in shady yards. Some modernization in the old sec-
tion has taken place, of course, but not enough to destroy the ‘
atmosphere of antiquity.
Smokestacks and large manufacturing plants are almost en-
tirely lacking. With the exception of tobacco warehouses that
surround the town on its outskirts, it is a city of residences and
institutions. Since much of old Lexington was built substan-
tially, the city presents a delightful mixture of the old and the
new.
Fayette County, of_which Lexington is the seat, had in 1930,
inclusive of Lexington, a population of 68,543. This population,
three-quarters white and one-quarter Negro, is long—established,
the original stock being Americans from the Atlantic Coast who
brought their Negro servants from Maryland, Virginia, and the
Carolinas. Today the county has an estimated total population
of 78,000, the rise being due partly to normal increase and partly
to unsettled industrial conditions that within recent years have
had a marked tendency to cause population to drift toward the
more favored economic areas. The practice of employment by
the day rather than the monthly or seasonal employment of farm

 labor tends to center the families of this labor group within the
urban area, where, during the fall and winter, employment is
found in handling the tobacco crop that pours into the city for
sale, curing and storage.
Fayette County, a Part of the inner Bluegrass region upon
which Lexington depends for its backlog of prosperity, is like
the entire Bluegrass north and east of the Kentucky River, a ‘
gently rolling plain, originally timbered but long since cleared
and devoted to agriculture and grazing. Its fields and pastures
are dotted and bordered with trees remindful of the great forest
t that gave to the word "wilderness" a significant and sometimes
a sinister meaning. Oak, walnut, sycamore, maple, chestnut, and
a profusion of other trees, flowering shrubs, vines, and the canes,
detested by pioneers, once grew out of a soil rich in lime and
phosphates. Here are farms ranging in size from 50 acres or
less to the thousand and more acre estates that cluster about
· Lexington, and are devoted to horse raising. The great planta-
tions that existed prior to the War between the States, given
over in their later years to tobacco growing, are now broken up.
The principal reminders of that day are the great country homes
dating back to the era before the conflict, and the stone walls
that border the highways that lead into Lexington. The serv-
ants, during the "slack season," gathered up limestone rocks ‘
from the surface of the fields and built these walls. Today,
smaller farms are operated under a more intensive agricultural
system, usually by the owner, who often rents out to Negroes,
descendants of the old time slave population, a few acres of to-
bacco land. These tenants, following the social customs of gen-
erations of community life, often live in village clusters that
scarcely,merit the name of towns, little groups of houses mainly
situated on side roads. Some of the more thrifty Negroes own
their own homes and the tiny farms surrounding them.
Fayette County, in common with the entire rural area of
the Bluegrass, where not devoted to horse raising, is given over
to tobacco and livestock raising. The culture of tobacco, begun
with the settlement of the Bluegrass, leaped into the position of
a major industry when, with the substitution of steamboats for
sailing craft and the later flooding of the American market with
foreign rope and twine making fibers, the culture of hemp, up
to that time a ready-money crop and basis of Lexington’s exten-
sive rope making industries, became unprohtable. Over the im-
‘ mense loose-leaf tobacco floors (see City Tour F), and out from
the warehouses where the farm product is cured and stored an-

 Lexington and Environs Today 8
nually, passes a crop that in cash value to the city and its en-
virons far outranks any other product. This rural production
sets the pace for the trade activity within the city, and a good
tobacco year is a good year for the city as a whole.
Next to tobacco, livestock farming engages the attention of
_ rural Fayette and the surrounding region. Here the old tradi-
tions that set Lexington apart from the ordinary town again
make themselves powerfully felt. The small group of plantation
owners who lived within and about the growing town and rising
city were men of rich and deep stock raising traditions that
rooted back through Middle Colonial lines to the pastures and
paddocks of manorial England. Their desire for the best in
horses extended to their sheep and cattle and hogs, and they
indulged that desire by procuring from Europe and from older
sections in America the best blood lines obtainable. At an early
day the pastures of the Bluegrass became famous for the quality
of their sheep, and more especially their cattle. The tradition re-
mains, and today, through the stockyards of Lexington, pours
an annual wealth second to that from the tobacco fields.
The great horse farms that spread out from the city on every
hand represent a special development within recent decades of
_ a love for horse flesh, deep-rooted in the lives of early Lexing-
tonians. As modern business men take up golf, so did the early
lawyers, physicians, educators, ministers, bankers, and business
men take to breeding swift and sure-footed horses. This satisfied
in part their need of rapid transportation, and in part was due
to traditions learned on the ·wide Atlantic coastal plain from
Maryland to the Carolinas. The limestone soils essential to the
development of sound bone and durable hoofs was already
present. When the timber had been cleared, the nutritious blue-
grass crept in and possessed the land. Imported English and
Arabian stallions sired sons and daughters that were fleet of foot.
These generations of men rode the pick of their fathers’ stables
away to battle, and a love for hne horses that amounted to a
passion developed and grew. When, after the \Var between the
States, the empty paddocks were gradually refilled, the blood of
the best horses of bygone years was treasured, kept, and in-
creased. That blood, developed by great breeders today, was
known only to the inner circles of lovers of horses. It extended
from the thoroughbred through the saddle horse and trotter
breeds, and is no