xt7q833mxv5r https://exploreuk.uky.edu/dips/xt7q833mxv5r/data/mets.xml   Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station. 1931 journals kaes_circulars_001_4_187_02 English Lexington : The Service, 1913-1958. Contact the Special Collections Research Center for information regarding rights and use of this collection. Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 187 text Circular (Kentucky Agricultural Experiment Station) n. 187 1931 2014 true xt7q833mxv5r section xt7q833mxv5r · 1   vV.·-. ,
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A UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY A · 1 
COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE ‘ ‘ ‘  
L · 1 I `Z '
Extension Division ,1 _  
THOMAS P. COOPER, Dean and Director l ·1    
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CIRCULAR NO. 187 * ._  
(mavisrau) ,1   _“·   
BOUND BUI IONHOLES, POCKETS AND p 1  
NECK OPENINGS. ° y  
Lexington, Ky.  
June, 1931 A V  
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Published in connection with the agricultural extension work carried  
on by cooperation of the College of Agriculture, University of Kentucky, 1   gi
with the U. S. Department of Agriculture, and distributed in furtherance Q  
of the work provided for in the Act of Congress of May S, 1914. 1  
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  Fig. 1.——Meth0d of mzmking bound buttunhule I.
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CIRCULAR NO. 187   · ·i    
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Bound Buttonholes, Pockets and Neck Openings Y _i ` _.’, p    
‘ By ISABELLE M. STORY  'A T I, il T T` ,_p    
B0uN¤ Burrow-ioi.Es p T-   V p  
Use; On tailored and semi—tailorcd garments, as coats, T’  , T · Ti  
suits, dresses, blouses and skirts. tg·_ _ V, _ , ' (  
Material: Firm, closely woven cloth of wool, silk, linen, " ,i I i _  
cotton or rayon. Thin, loosely woven materials do not make a i ·_ _ .  
durable bound buttonholes. · _    
The Binding: May be of same material as garment, or ot a T ,  
material of contrasting color. lt may be cut either lengthwise i  
ofthe cloth or on the bias. A lengthwise binding, however, holds . i  
its shape bet,ter. , l ,  
Size: A buttonhole should be about one-sixteenth of an inch V _    
larger than the button used. For decorative effect, bound but- T (  
tonholes sometimes are made half an inch larger than the button. ( ' '· `  
An opening that is to be bound should not be cnt before i T ·  
The binding is stitched in place, as shown in Fig. 1. ,· .  
Brutt0n7z,0lc I. To make— (1) l\Tlark position of buttonhole ,  
, 011 garment, with colored basting (Fig. 1 a). If two or more V  
bllttonholes are used along an opening, care must be taken to p _ T  
Hlaiutain uniformity thruont in; (a) Size of buttonholes, (b) ( l ‘ A  
Space between buttonholes, (c) distance from edge of hem. (2) _ »'  
Clit binding about two inches wide and one-half? inch longer ‘ _ i  
Tllélll the desired length of buttonhole. Mark with basting the ,i g i
D0Sil`i01i of buttonhole on binding strip. (The ellect, 0‘l’ finished ` if '}
bulrl(lllllOl(‘ is more pleasing if facing and ()|)(‘lllllQ` are elif <‘XélUl`l}' · _    
along thread of cloth). (3) Place right side of binding to right i  
side of garment, line marked on binding directly over line marked i i  
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  egg _ 4 Kentucky Exfenswn Owcular N0. 187
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J   _ on garment. Baste to position (Fig. 1 b). (4) Stitch around
itil buttonhole be innin at the middle of one side. Stitch about
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i' :.J one-eighth of an inch out from marked hne thru center on each
  side, and directly across ends of tlns line. Overlap stitching
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  i to give strength, or draw threads thru to wrong side and tig
 
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  Fi:. 2.—Nelhod of making bound buttnnlmlcs, i, j, bound l»nilonh<>l€ li
@4%;  k to m, bound bnttonholc II.
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  ’ (Fig. l 0).   Cut thrn both thicknesses of cloth along lmGS
  iliiistratcil in Fic; l d taking care not to cnt thrn line of
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  machine stitching at corners. (6) Draw binding thru to \\‘i‘011g
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, Bound Buttonholcs, Pockets and Neck Openings 5 ‘ · ‘ F `    
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side and crease along line of machine stitching. Take care that A ·   . it l  
*“`°“U(l binding at ends of buttonhole does not show on right side. (. i .    
1 about , Baste closely across the ends of opening (Fig. l e). (7) Fold 1 if ( ·i il i  
’“ each binding so that edges meet in center of buttonhole (Fig. 1 f), · , - ~_ . i i '  
itching (8) Lace edges of buttonhole together so that they touch evenly   ( _ _)    
ind tie thru the center. Baste. Overhand folded edges together '_   i ` Q i
securely at ends of buttonhole, taking up small stitches in the , I  
material underneath (Fig. 1 g). (9) Turn fold of hem or facing l ~° * ' » l . t ._  
, over and baste to position. Cut thru fold as illustrated in (11), V, . ~ - —· _. - ll     ‘
taking care that lines correspond with those cut in (cl) on right - * · " · _   _;
side of garment. (10) Turn in edges around buttonhole open- _; (` · . V (  
ing and hem down by hand along line of machine stitching, i, _ ( · ·  
_ Turn under edge of hem of garment and stitch by machine, or · -   ,`·_ ,  [=( tl
hem by hand, using long loose stitches (Fig. 2 i). Press care- "  , ` F (  ‘,_-- · g
fully before removing lacing stitches thru center of buttonhole. Tl, . _) QV .  
The right side of linished buttonhole is shown in Fig. 2 (j). if _1 { V _  
Note: A more durable buttonhole is made by placing a · i ', ( (  
_ second row of machine stitching around buttonhole on under- ‘  
side, and exactly covering first row, after binding is laced ,  
together as shown in Fig. 1, g. i (F _  
Button/role Il`. Cut binding and baste to position, as de; ·  
scribed in (l) and (2) of buttonhole I. (3) Turn back ends of . ,  
buttouhole bindng one-fourth of an inch at each end and baste. i , _ N tg;]
Stitch about one-eighth of an inch from marked line thru center A _  
. on each side the exact length of buttonliole (Fig, 2 k). Draw - i ,i i  
threads thru to wrong side and tic. (4) Cut on marked line   ‘ .  
thru both binding and garment the exact buttonhole length    
(Fig. 2 l). (5) Draw binding thru to wrong side and press ,  
along line of machine stitching. Turn binding over edges of ,  
Scams and press, Lace edges of binding together at each end (  
of buttouhole (Fig, 2 in), (6) Turn in edges of binding along Q ( · ’  
Sides. even with binding on right side of garment, and hem down _· I  
iU'0ll|l(l buttonhole along line of machine stitching and across `A · i i  
h°l°Il <‘1lc¤{;C;%kl;%cE{1z1€;1’xg{11CZ·oB?§§§LExllixtmewslv ·

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‘ Bound Buttonholcs, Pockets and Neck Openings 7 4 , l _   t ·   
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Set—In Pockets. (A) Bound with Self Material. To make- l ( i, l - g,    
(1) Mark with colored basting the place for pocket slit. (2) = it , -l V l  
— Cut material for pocket one inch wider than pocket slit, and ? ~ y , ip   ,
about ten inches long. (3) Lay right side of pocket to right — A , ,    
· side of garment, upper end of pocket extending an inch or more ( ` _ i i
above pocket opening, and baste the two together along line `    
marked in garment for pocket opening. (4) Stitch around _( ‘ ·     .  
pocket opening about one—fourth of an inch from pocket slit on ~ ‘_ ( (` .· _ l`   5 »  
each side and directly across ends of slit (Fig. 3 a). Draw 2 ’, ` ( (~    
thread ends thru to wrong side and tie. Steps 5, 6, 7 and 8 are   ` ` 3 ~ T    
the same as 5, 6, 7 and 8 in Bound Buttonhole 1. (9) Stitch l` ° . A _  
around pocket, on right side, close to the edge of binding (Fig. ,.   l i 1 _' 1  
3 b) ; draw threads thru to wrong side and tie. Or, stitch around ( ,   V ll i_ ( {xg,)
opening on underside, following exactly the line of stitching ( it ~ l ·’ i ( l '“  
described in (4). (10) Fold remaining pocket length up, with L ~ '· I ` I  
edges even, and baste along sides and end of pocket, but not ,  
tln·u garment. (11) Stitch around pocket, holding the side of fj)!
the pocket next to garment uppermost. Tie oft threads at lower ,  
end of pocket and overcast raw edges at sides and upper end of  
pocket (Fig. 3 c). Appearance of finished pocket on right side  
is the same as in illustration (b). i l · ( iii?.]
(B) Bound with Contrasting Material. With a few ex- ’ ‘ li  
ccptions, this pocket is made just as set-in-pocket (A). The i , ·  
material for pocket is out in two sections: (1) A strip of material l- `  
of contrasting color, but about 61/é inches long and one inch l  
Wider than the pocket opening. (2) A strip of same Il1&llZ€1'lEll "  
as garment, cut about 4% inches long and one inch wider than ( 1 ·  
the pocket opening, The contrasting material is applied to the ( , (  
garment as described in the tirst nine steps of set—in-pocket (A) . A ,  
(Fig. 3 d). In step (10), the pocket section, cut of same mate- ( l I  
Fléll HS garment is placed on section already applied to gH1‘l11Gl1'C, ,-    
l`l§`l1l( sides together, edges even, and the two basted together on A  
all four sides. These are then stitched together and H11lSll€(l HS ·l _  
d with Y 5 E
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  Fig. 5.—L:1p puulmi using I>0uud buii.0ul1<>le motlmd. ii, mitliiiu <»1' 1:111
i__.·1;i{§  ou wrong side of gziriueui. b, pocket strip siitvhcd to place and out 1·¢·z1wc=r edK€»
,.‘?=e;·, d, wroiiy side of Iinisliod pocuct. 0, and f, lapped and bound neck 0p@uiii=S
E   mzulu hy hound buttonhola method,
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Bound Butfoniholes, Pockets and Neck Openings 11 i · ,    
I-ight side of lap. Seam pockets together at sides and overcast __ ( 1 _ - `   E. 
raw edges (Fig. 4 f). _ ;   , f ( f  
Lap Pocket (B) Bound Bnttonhole Method. To make—(1) ( ( ( . - (  
Mark with pencil or guide basting, on wrong side of material, * . . ,    
the position and size of finished lap (Fig. 5 a). (2) For pocket ` - A.  
and lap, cut a strip of material, lengthwise of cloth, one inch T lid;
wider than length of finished lap and about three times longer i ( i( V · _~  
J than desired depth of pocket. (3) Place right side of this strip l. » · ·   ,» · 1 `.ii   ,i
to right side of garment letting it extend one-half. inch above 1 i ·( " · 1 .  
and at each end of pocket lap. Baste, then stitch around all [Q ( ‘ ( ( ·  
four sides on line marking outline of lap. (4) Cut away mate- ·· Z A ` “  
p rial, leaving one-fourth inch seam allowance on all sides, and ‘ (   I (  
slash at corners as shown in Fig. 5 b. (5) Draw pocket mate- il A, . ( ` (   _1
rial tln·u to wrong side, crease along line of machine stitching 7   , *   ·_ ’ , 1  
and then fold to form pocket lap, as shown in Fig. 5 c. (6) Baste i ( ., · _  
pocket strip to seam at lower edge of opening and stitch on # ·_  
under side covering first line of stitching (Fig. 5 c). (7) Turn (  
remaining length of pocket strip up to form pocket, and with 1 ,  
edges even baste along sides and uppei· edge, but not thru gar— `  
ment. (8) Stitch, holding side of pocket next to garment .  
uppermost, covering first line of stitching at top and ends of V _  
lap (Fig. 5 d). (9) Finish by tying off threads and overcast- ( ,,  
ing edges of seams. · V I  
Various styles of pockets and bound buttonholes are used . ' (» `  
011 tailored and semi—tailored garments, but the ones described F i 1 .  
herein should meet all the needs of the home dressmaker. They ,.  
are easily made and durable, and when carefully constructed  
and well placed add much to the attractiveness of an otherwise » V P  
plain garment. Jiri 1  
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Nizcx opEN1Nc.s i· (=   j g _.  
The bound buttonhole method may also be used to advan~ V .  
tage in short openings at front of neck of tailored blouses and ·  
dresses. l    
( J
,— ml, A bound opening is made in the same way as the bound ‘ l  
_‘;5{{‘;{ ( Docket illustrated on pages 2 and 4, except that the slash is left · (  
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  12 Kentucky Extension Circular N 0. 187
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  ( open at the neck, and that the edges of binding are turned
  V under on the wrong side and hemmed down by hand to the
    line of machine stitching (Fig. 5, f),
  · A lapped opening like that now used on many tailored
  · i l blouses may be made in the same way as the lap pocket described (
E il . . . .
g_"_·.;§| on page 11, with the following exceptions: (1) The slash is left
j`   open at the neck; (2) ’l‘he material for lap is placed and folded `
fg.?} so as to form a lap from each side of opening instead of from .
  one side; and (3) Edges of lap are turned under and slip
  stitched along line of machine stitching at sides, or else extend
  1 ( back on each side to form a facing. See Fig. 5, e.
 
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